जंगलको खोचमा भेटेको मास्टर, मास्टर्नी र म

Bagaman Kulung

Photo in 2008 with Bhojpore Khukuri

कुरा सन् २००८ को हो । काठमाण्डौं विमानस्थलबाट यती एयरले लुक्लाको लागी १५ डिग्रीमा आफुलाई सोझ्याउन थालेपछि मैले मेरो सिटको पेटी कसे । ३५ मिनेट पछि लुक्लामा ओर्लेर खानाको लागी छत्रदाईको होटल गएको थिएँ । खाना खाने क्रममा म एक्लै हिड्ने जंगल र खोँचको बाटोमा चोरको बिगविगी बढेको सुनाईयो । कसैको हिजो मात्र सुनको सिक्री खोसियो अरें । कसैको पैसा लुटियो अरें आदि इत्यादी । त्यही बाटोमा हाम्रो गाँउको चन्द्र दाईलाई माओवादी द्वन्दकालमा डाकाहरुले मारेको चाही म आफैलाई पनि थाँहा थियो ।गरिबी निवारण कोष र विश्व बैंकको सहयोगमा चल्ने एउटा परियोजना, त्यसको काम चाही त्यही बाटोभरीको होटल व्यवसायीहरुलाई पर्यटन व्यवसाय सम्बन्धी तालिम दिनुपर्ने अनि म त्यस परियोजनाको एकाउण्टेन्ट थिएँ । जंगलको बाटो हुदै ३ बजेतिर म पैया भन्ने गाँउसम्म पुग्दा बाटोमा समय समयमा टुम्लिङटारबाट आउने युरोपियनहरुको केही टिमबाहेक मान्छेहरुसंग भेट्ने क्रम ज्यादै पातलिएको मैले महशुस गरे । पैयामा खाजा खाने होटलका साहुनी दिदीले पनि सुरक्षामा होस् गर्न भनेपछि भने मलाई ठुलै झोक चल्यौ । औंद्योगिक मेला भृकुटी मण्डपमा किनेको मेरो लामो भोजपुरे खुकुरी कम्मरमा भिरें, कार्यक्रमको पेश्की दुई लाख पचास हजारलाई पनि कम्मरभित्रै लुकाएँ । कानमा सामसुङसेटको एयरफोन छिराएर र धिरज दाईको पप गीत बजाएँ, अनि हिडँे पपको तालमा ।

झोँकमा पाइला छिटै चलेछ म त चारै बजे पो मेरो बासस्थान सिबुजे पुगेछु । सिँबुजे गाँउदेखि अर्को गाँउ गाईखर्क पुग्न २ घण्टा लाग्दो हो त्यो पनि सिस्नो टिप्ने १५ डिग्रीको चिम्टालाई आकासतिर पल्टाए जस्तो ठाँउ । पहिला ओरालो अनी नाकै थोकिने उकालो । मैले सिबुजेमै बास बस्ने निर्णय गरेँ । करिब २० घर जतिको सिबुजे शेर्पा गाँउमा न्युजिल्याण्डका एक संस्थाले सहयोग गरेको विद्यालय भवनमा फर्निचरको काम गर्ने खरीखोलातिरबाट झिकाईको ३ जना सिकर्मीदाईहरु नभएको भए मैले त्यस गाँउमा १५ वर्षभन्दा माथीको एक जना पनि पुरुष छैन भनेर माटोको कसम खान्थेहोला । धेरै शेर्पा दाईहरु विदेशीसंग सम्बन्ध विस्तार गरेर युरोपतिर रहेछ । कोही काठमाडौंतिर रहेछ । बाँकी रहेकाहरु पनि फुल सिजन परेकोले ट्रेकिङमा हिमालतिर रहेछन् । मैले उक्त गाँउको सबैभन्दा राम्रो लजमा बास मागें । शेर्पाभाषामा साहुनीले छोराछोरीहरुसंग केही गनठन गरेपछि बाँस पाइयो तर के विषयमा गनठन चल्यौ बुझिएन । समय घाम अस्ताउदो बेलाको थियो, वरिपरीका सेताम्मे हिमालहरुमा घाँमको किरण थियो, गाँउको मुनि इङखु खोला सुस्ताउदै थियो । केही विदेशी पाउनाहरु सिद्विनै लागेका घामका किरणहरुको भरपुर सदुपयोग गर्दै चौरमा बसिरहेका थिए । मैले दुरबिन र क्यमेरा वरिवरी सोझाएँ । त्यो मेरो कार्यालयको कामै थियो ।

केही क्षणपछि त्यस होटलमा गाँउका सबै महिलाहरु भेला हुन थाले । मानौं त्यहाँ आमा समूहको बैठक शूरु हुदैछ । त्यसबीचमा दुईजना दाईहरु पनि आए । तर साहुनीले ति मध्येका एकजनालाई साह्रै गाली गर्दै थियो । के भनेर गाली गरेको हो मैले पटक्कै बुझिन उनीहरु शेर्पा भाषामा बोलिरहेका थिएँ । तर जवाफमा त्यो पुरुषले ‘के गर्ने बाउजु गप गर्ने बानी’ भन्दै थियो । एकक्षण पछि मैले चिनेको र हाम्रो संस्थाले होटल व्यवस्थापन तालिम अगाडि नै दिईसकेको याङजी दिदी त्यो घरमा आईपुग्नुभयो । हामीले एकअर्कालाई अभिवादन ग-यौ र बोल्यौ । उनीहरुले शेर्पा भाषामै कुरा गरिरहेको थियो । तर बीचमा एकाउण्टेन्ट र मेरो संस्थाको नाम सुनेपछि मेरै बारेमा कुरा गरिरहेको मैले अड्कल गरेँ । फिस्स फिस्स हास्दै मैले पनि शेर्पा भाषा बुझ्छु नि भनेको थिएँ । उनीहरुले माफी पो माग्न थाले । कारण त के रहेछ भने अघिदेखि मलाई त त्यस गाँउमा चोर पो सोचिरहेका रहेछन् र पो आमा समूहको बैठक जस्तो देखिने गरी आमाहरु भेला हुँदा रहेछन् । हुन पनि मैले चाही मेरो भोजपुरे खुकुरी पनि फुकाउनै पो बिर्सेको हरेछु । मेरो दुरबिन र क्यामेरा पनि विदेशी पर्यटकहरुको चोरेको अनुमान गरेछन् क्यारे ।

 त्यस पुरुषले गाली खानुपर्ने कारण चाही अर्कै रहेछ । नेचा सल्यानतिरको एकजना महिला त्यो जंगलको खोचमा मास्टर काम गर्दा रहेछिन् । त्यस स्कुलमा ति दुई शेर्पाहरुले फर्निचरको काम गर्दा रहेछन् । उनीहरुलाई धेरै भाषा आउदो रहेछ । अनि ति मास्टर्नीले चाही यसरी भाषा जान्नुको रहस्य सोधेकी रहेछिन् । गप गर्ने बानी परेको भन्ने सिकर्मीले चाही आफु भाषा सिक्दै केटी पट्याउन माहिर भएको र अब क्षेत्रीनी मात्र बाँकी रहेको कुरा सुनाएछन् । त्यो कुरा सुनेपछि ति अनकन्टार जंगलको खोचको विद्यालयको ती क्षेत्रीनी मास्टर्नीलाई चाही पर्नु पिर परेको रहेछ र म बसेको घरको साहुनीलाई उजुरी दिएको रहेछ । अनि पो साहुनीले चाही बोलाएरै गाली गर्नु पर्ने अवस्था आएको रहेछ ।

भोली पल्ट बिहानै म त्यस ठाँउबाट हिडेँ । त्यसदिन म बुङ पुगेँ । त्यहाँ हाम्रो कार्यालय थियो । त्यहाँ धेरै मानिसहरु बस्छन् । मलाई कुनै समस्या थिएन तर मेरो अर्को काम चाही साल्पाको जंगल हुदै टुम्लिङटारसम्मको होटल सर्भे गर्न जानु पर्ने थियो । तर म संग मेरो कार्यालयको अर्को साथी हिडेपछि मैले सहज महशुस गर्दै थिएँ । बुङबाट एक दिनको हिडाई पछि हामी सानाम भन्ने अर्को शेर्पा गाँउ पुग्यौ । त्यस जंगलको खोचमा हामीले भेट्यौ अर्को मास्टरसाप् । ऊ बेलुका ४ बोटल रक्सी खान्थ्यौ अनि मात्र भात खान्थ्यौ । भोली बिहान हामीले चिया खायौ तर उसले कुनै हिच्किचावत बिना फेरी रक्सी खायो । बिहानभरी हिड्दा हामीलाई भोकले प्याक प्याक बनाइसकेको थियो तर त्यहाँ नजिकमा कुनै होटलहरु थिएन । दश बज्न लागेको बेला त्यही मास्टरसाप्को स्कुलनेरको गाँउमा हामी आईपुग्यौ । हामीले भए भरको खानेकुरामा अपसन् नराखी खान थाल्यौ । तर मास्टरसापले फेरी त्यही कुरा पिउनुभयो । मास्टरसापसंगको हाम्रो भेट अब अन्त हुदै थियो । हामी साल्पाको जंगलतिर जाँदै थियौ । मैले बडो आदर्शका साथ भुमिका मिलाएर मेरो साथीलाई भने । त्यो बिचरा तराईको मान्छे, यस्तो हिमालको जंगलको खोँचमा प्रा.वि.को मास्टर गर्नु छ । परिवार भेट्न दशै कुर्नु पर्छ । पढाई नभएरै यहाँ पढाउनुपरेको हो, आफ्नो मान्छे भएको भए र घुस खुवाउन पैसा भएको भए ऊ यहाँ पढाउदैनथे । परिस्थितीले त उसलाई यहाँ पु-यायो नै तर झन त्यसमा रक्सी चाही किन खान्छ ? मेरो भूमिका सकिन नपाउदै मेरो साथीले थप्र्यौ क्यारेम्बोर्ड र तास खेल्न पनि २ जना त चाहिन्छ’ । ऊ एक्लै छ के गरोस् त ? ओःहोः मेरो त आदर्श र उत्तर नै हरायो यो जवाफले ।

यसो सोचेँ त्यो मास्टर्नी, यो मास्टर र म मा के भिन्नता छ ? कुनै एनजिओ, आइएनजिओ कर्मीहरु तारे होटलमा मिटिङ गरेरै बिताउछन् । उनीहरु बिदेश भ्रमण गर्छन् । डलरमा तलब थाप्छन् । प्रोपोजल आवहान गर्छन् । मन परेकालाई दिन्छन् नत्र नदिदाँ पनि भयो । कुनै मास्टरहरु बिहान, दिउसो, बेलुका ट्युसन पढाउन पाउछन् । नजिकै कलेज भए उनीहरुको योग्यता बढाउछन् । सके राजनीतिक गरेरै पनि तलब पाउछन् । हामीमा चाही न पत्रपत्रिका, न बि.बि.सि, न टेलिभिजन, न फोन (त्यतिबेला फो थिएन) । अनि मैले निचोड दिएँ । ती मास्टर, मास्टर्नी र म मा कुनै फरक छैन । फरक भए ऊ डराउछिन् म डराउदिन । ऊ खान्छ म खाँदिन ।

GHTD project and Ministry of Finance Funded for Setopokhari Phaplu trekking Trail

April 2, 2013:- After collective advocacy by local people finally, the Great Himalayan Trail Development Project (GHTD) and Nepal Government Ministry of Finance have raised 1.8 million funds for construction of Setopokhari Phaplu new trekking trail through Muddi of Chheskam Solukhumbu. Local people of lower Solukhumbu have been demanding to construct new trekking trail from Setopokhari valley to Phaplu airport through the bank of Hunggu River.

In this regard, Barshaman Pun immediate minister of finance was given letter of memorandum, when he went  to Bung to inaugurate Kulung national festival Chakchakur on January 2013. Similarly the team of GHTD has been convinced on positive interrelation of Great Himalayan Trail and Phaplu Setopokhari trekking trail promotions. Meanwhile, in collaboration with Avenues national television and Samas Media Pvt. Ltd, a local NGO Hill Development and Conservation Group Nepal visualized and disseminated needs of this trail on  Avenues Television on March 2012. As the impacts of main those aforementioned three events the GHTD project Nrs. 0.8 million and ministry of Finance Nrs. 1 million have funded for this trial construction.

Parkhi Dhan Nachhiring the Executive Member of Hill Development & Conservation Group Nepal who involved in monitoring of implemented program has said that there is needed at least 3 bridges construction and if it is ignored for immediate, at least 3.5 million additional budgets is needed for whole trail construction up to Setopokhari valley where proposed the Great Himalayan Trail can be accessed.

The Story of the Phaplu- Setopokhari Tourism Trekking Trail Promotion

Bagaman Kulung Email: kulung_4@hotmail.com

I was born in Chhemsing village (1500 m.) lies in Chheskam VDC of Solukhumbu Nepal. In front of my village there is Bhukur peak of 4000 m. high; bellow in 1200 m. there is Hungu River and other parts surrounded by the green forests. In my childhood I used to think that the sky is carried by the Bhukur peak and I could touch if I could submit the top of Bhukur peak.

When I was studying in Class Seven my father jointed me to work his official works of community forest management. He was the president of local forest management committee and the Bhukur peak was under his working area. He used to encourage me to write application letters of user people, meeting minutes of his committee and other as well. In collaboration with local community forest, Makalu Barun National Park use to monitor the forest. One day Makalu Barun National park office sent official letter to my father for sending a representative for travelling Bhukur peak area, meanwhile my school was holiday. I really wanted to go up to that peak. I hided the letter until a day before of walking. When I show the letter before a day of walking nobody wanted to go. So I proposed myself. My father and mother become worried of altitude sickness. But finally I went with them. Suppose the team of National Park were searching hunter in the forest but I used to shout in my mother language for running far, if somebody were hunting and could understand my language. The staff member of Makalu Barun did not understand Kulung language. We travelled not only around Bhukur peak but majorly we traveled towards Khongmadingma valley from Kenpa and Bhukur peak. It was really pleasure program for me.

After two years of this event I passed my SLC examination by sublime try but not direct. In this time it was discriminatory policy of government that a person who pass only in sublime try was not allowed to joint collage at the same year. So when I pass my SLC, I was free and I decided to go to trekking. I was of 16 years at that time. But when I was preparing to go to trekking, I heard from another room to my senior friends and they were saying "Bagaman cannon go to trekking". Then I entered in their room and asked the most difficulties and dangerous trekking in Solukhumbu. They said the most dangerous part is Amphulapcha pass (5800m.) through Naulekh Merala. Then I decided to go there. It was not easy work but I was very happy to go there. When we entered Setopokhari valley though Merala Pass (5415 m), we had to collect firewood for cooking and lighting for warm. But when I was searching firewood there I found a big root of tree. When I called my friends to bring it they said that it was a death body of porter. They added that a person who cannot cross this valley in snowing have to die there, if the trekking office do not send helicopter from Kathmandu. They also said that porters have no access of helicopter so normally they die, if they become sick in this valley. I become serious of this notice. Meanwhile I saw a place we arrived from Bhukur when I came with the staffs of Makalu Barun National park.

Then I started to think seriously. In Setopokhari valley there was a big pond and water from this pond was going towards Hungu valley. The pond was the origin Point of Hungu River. The geographical situation was saying that if somebody follows the Hungga River they do not have to pass any peaks and it will be the best idea to save trekkers who have to face altitude in the snowing weather in Setopokhari valley. But my friends was saying there is not any peaks but rocks and River blocks way. I was only thinking why people cannot broke rock to save trekkers of Setopokhari.  

Luckily I got opportunity to work as a program assistant after my Bachelor of Business Study of Trivuwan University in Hill Development and Conservation Group Nepal a local NGO. The organization has a program related to tourism promotional funded by Poverty Alleviation/ World Bank in Bung. But in actually the promotional program was for the Lukla to Tumlingtar but not for the Setopokhari valley. But I used to ask in the village if somebody went from Setopokhari valley to Muddi of Chheskam through the bank of Hungu River. And I came to know some persons who pet sheep and goes to Setopokhari valley in the summer season and familiar with the geographical situation of this area very well. I met them; I asked them and prepared a concept not for the Phaplu to Setopokhari valley tourism promotional possibilities. Nobody did not understand the important of this trail. I was trying to publish it in any publication but I was not getting any publication too. Finally the local NGO Bung Welfare Society allowed me to publish it in there publication and I published first time about this important of trail. I did not get any responses after this publication. I guessed it may be unrealistic concept and may be readers were laughing. So I was not encouraged. But when somebody started to advocate to allocate VDC fund for that tourism trail then I came to know the published concept note were working.

In this connection once Namgel Sherpa the famous mountain climber in Nepal called me to know the details progress of Phaplu to Setopokhari valley tourism trail possibilities. I really surprised because only I heard about him by the national media of Nepal. It was great opportunity for me to meet him. When we met and discussed I came to know that he went this area to know the geographical condition for the new rescue way from Setopokhari and somebody recommended my name and gave my contact no. to him. Then I was fully confident that I have been doing good job.

In this situation, in February 2012, I met Ramsharan Majhi and Ananda Paudel a dedicated team of Samas Media (P) L.td. in Kathmandu. They are a tourism promotional program producer for Avenues national television. I shared my concept with them. They interested to go there. But it was challengeable work for fund raising. We had to collect at least NRs. one million budgets to go for the survey, preparing documentary and dissemination in television. The meeting of stockholders in Kathmandu selected me as the local program coordinator for fund raising. Finally we prepared this video documentary and disseminated in Avenues television after 36 days filed visit of this area. In our team the technician person of district technical office Salleri was involved and he prepared the technical and financial budget report with its possibilities in the future. As the program impact The Great Himalayan Trail Project has funded of 0.8 million fund for the construction of this tourism way. But it is not enough budget for the full construction.        

Setopokhari valley in National newspapers of Nepal

 Translated from Rajdhani Daily Newspaper

Death of tourist porter due to high altitude

Solukhumbu November 10, 2012 : Due to altitude sickness a porter of tourist died in Setopokhari valley of Solukhumbu. Mekh Raj Kulung from Solukhumbu Chheskam 4 who went there as a porter to pass Amphulapchha through Merala pass died in Setopokhari valley. He was a porter of French tourists. Neither the helicopter for his rescue from Kathmandu succeeded to land due to unfavorable weather nor he succeeded to pass Merala pass that are the major reason why he died there.When tourists reach Setopokhari valley, the Merala pass is the easiest way to back for those trekkers who become sick of altitude but it is also of at least 5415 m.

"Helicopter was sent immediately when reported to the office but unfortunately it backed without landing due to the weather condition on Saturday.Then we re-sent helicopter on Sunday early morning but he was already expired sadly" Pasang Renji Sherpa the operation manager of Thamserku Trek & Expedition Pvt. Ltd said. It will be very difficult to back from this valley, when the weather change in to stormy and rainy. There is a difficult geographical situation to back for crossing at least a mountain pass among four of Merala 5415 m., Amphulapchha 5800 m, Mingbola 5817 and Sherpeni col pass 6135 m. Yearly numbers of porters use to die in this valley so that local peoples from Solukhumbu Chheskam have been demanding to develop a new tourism rescue way from Phaplu to Setopokhari valley in which it will not be any pass and it will flow the Hungga river. 

News of Sourya Daily

Translation from Sourya daily

Death of 3 tourists in trekking trip

Monday Nov. 12, 2012 Kathmandu:  Three trekkers in Mustang trekking have been found death. It was in last week. According to the Trekking Agent Association of Nepal (TAAN) the death three trekkers are Israeli, German, and Australian citizen. Death of Iran Kohen a 25 years Israeli tourist held in Kaligandaki River after he felt down from wooden bridge. His death body was found at 3 kilometer down from the River. Kohen went trekking alone. Next trekker German citizen Elka Denid's death held due to high altitude. Denid became sick at altitude of 5100 high meter and was taken to the local health post but he did not live TAAN resource said. Similarly next tourist Australian Citizen Josef Joan's death held in tent. His death was called due to heart act. Last month 11 tourists was death due to snowfall in Mountain Manaslu.

Meanwhile a trekking porter's death held in Setipokhari valley of Solukhumbu. Mekh Raj Kulung a porter of French team who went Setipokhari valley from Lukla through Merala pass and Amphulapcha pass died in Setipokhari. Kulung resident of Chheskam Solukhumbu was death after he reached Setipokhari of around 3700 m high altitude. According to Pasang Renji Sherpa the operating manager of Thamserku trekking company, the sent helicopter for rescue of him had backed without bringing him due to unfavorable weather to land and they could not rescue him. Kulung was associated as a porter from this office. Other sick tourists and porters have already been rescued. It was operated rescue works after when they was in trouble due to snowing in small valley like a pond.

Setipokhari is a very risky trekking zone. As per locals tourists have to pass at least one among of 4 mountain passes available to back from this valley. 'But it is really difficult in case of snowing' Baga man Kulung a local said. Locals of lower Solukhumbu have been demanding to construct a new trekking route from Phaplu to Setipokhari that can be used without passing any peaks as a rescue way. Makalu and Mera peak are under this way but really difficult to access Kulung added. At least 2/3 tourists have been dying in this valley per year. 

News of Nagarik daily newspaper

 Translation from Nagarik Daily newspaper 

Brought death body by helicopter

 

Solukhumbu Nov. 12, 2012:  Death body of a porter died before some days has been brought Phaplu by the helicopter. Death body of Mekhraj Kulung who went for trekking has been brought from Khongmadingma valley to Phaplu district hospital. He was died before 3 days. Kulung was going to trekking in association of Thamserku Trekking Company towards Amphulapcha pass died said local police administration. Mr. Kulung resident of Chheskam 4, Solukhumbu has been working as a trekking worker since 20 years.