Translated from Kantipur Daily
Search of Mountain Trails
By Baga Man Kulung
February
14, 2015,Solukhumbu Setipokhari is a piece of
Heaven for tourists
but spider silk of death for porters. This place is called
Khongmadingma in local Sherpa language, where so many tourist porters have been
dying. Before a couple years Sapte Kulung died, last year Urane Maila and this
year Mekh Raj Kulung. This is just from Chheskam village of Solukhumbu and an
example of how many porters are dying there. But nobody keeps records of this incident.
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Setipokhari in trekking season (Photo Purna Kulung) |
Trekkers who try access this valley from
Lukla airport have three well recognized alternative ways. One is Lukla to
Setipokhari by passing Merala 5,415 m through Tholdanda, Kothe and Naulekh,
second alternative is by passing Mingbola pass 5,817 m. through Phakding,
Namche and Tengboche and final or third alternative is by passing Amphulapcha 5,800
m through Namche, Tengboche and Chhukung.
Trekkers who go from Tumlingtar can access
by passing Sherpeni col pass 6,135 m through Seduwa village and Makalu Based
camp. More than dozen of mountains
including, Makalu, Mera, Barunje, Chamlang,
Hungu Chuli cannot be accessed without reaching Setipokhari valley, that is the
reason why so many tourists go to Setipokhari valley in each trekking season.
Khongmadingma valley (Photo Lakpad Kulung) |
This valley is really a piece of heaven,
but when it starts snowing and already reached tourists cannot back by crossing
those available 4 alternatives, they start to feel themselves in a spider silk
of death. In this critical situation helicopter rescue from Kathmandu is the
first and last solution. But some time sent helicopter also cannot be landed in
that place.
Is there any ways can be constructed
without passing any peaks? This is a main research topic of we locals since
last 5 years. In Setipokhari valley there is a Setipokhari pond from where
Hunga River is flowing down to joint in Dhudkhoshi River. It could be easily
seen in Google Earth and was explained by some shepherds, who already went there with their sheep. That made us
more excited and optimistic.
We firmed a research team and decided to
go for research. We accompanied some technicians of District Techincal Office
Salleri Solukhumbu for technical reports. After observation and research, our
team concluded that it can be developed a trekking route through the bank of
Hung River that arrives Muddikharka of Solukhumbu Chheskam and another can be
extended towards Sangkhuwasabha till Kenpa and both can be rescue ways. The
trekkers who arrive Kenpa or Muddikharka can go Tumlingtar, Lamidanda or Phaplu
airport.
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Research team (Photo Parkash Gopali) |
We accompanied 16 locals to construct
temporary ways, bridges, to cut jungles and to carry our foods. As per
technical reports, for the way which goes from Muddi to Setipokhari through Jurekom,
Magandovan and Watelma Dovan, it is needed Rs. 6 million and 800 thousand
budget excluding costs of 6 needed suspension bridges.
Our team decided to extend our research
works towards Kenpa from Khongmadingma after when we reached there. But due to started
snowing and finishing our foods, we backed through the same way we took. We
went to Kenpa side through Chhemsing, Boksuwar after when we backed but we lost
opportunity to survey of Khongmadingma to Kenpa, which are the most important
parts. Then we moved towards Salpa Pokhari through Bhukur and Mamerku then
finished at Lamidanda Khotang. It took 36 days to complete this work and was
before 2 years.
The survey work we did not complete has
been completed by an organization Makalu Mera Shilichong Tourism Development
Center based in Sangkhuwasabha. Their report requires Rs.8.2 million to
complete construction of Kenpa to Khongmadingma. But those two ways from Muddi
to Setipokhari and Kenpa to Setipokhari are yet to be constructed.
Both ways can be used as rescue way, if we
could develop, but what is more those ways benefit around of 128 thousand
population of 28.5 thousand households of lower Solukhumbu, Upper Bhojpur and
Khotang and west north Sangkhuwasabha. For original Nepali version please click
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